The Namhan river, the southern branch of the Han, curves through the farmland of Gyeonggi province east of Seoul, and this stop lies near it, between Yeoju, Icheon and Yangpyeong. It is a gentle, rural landscape of rice fields, low wooded hills and small towns, and the river runs wide and slow between sandbanks and reed beds.
Yeoju is the burial place of King Sejong the Great, the fifteenth-century ruler who created the Korean alphabet, hangeul, and his tomb, set among pines on a hillside, is one of the most visited royal sites in the country. Silleuksa, a Buddhist temple, sits right on the riverbank, with a brick pagoda overlooking the water, an unusual setting for a Korean temple, most of which are in the mountains.
Icheon, to the west, is famous for two things: its rice, which was once sent as tribute to the royal court, and its ceramics. The kilns of Icheon produce celadon, white porcelain and everyday pottery, and the town holds a big ceramics festival every spring. A lunch of Icheon rice, served in a stone pot with dozens of side dishes, is a feast.
For a swim, the Namhan river is broad and slow, and in summer some stretches are used for water sports, but currents can be strong, and swimming is not always permitted. Look for designated areas, or settle for a rest on the bank.
One rule shapes every ride in Korea: motorcycles are banned from the expressways, so all travel is on national and local roads. They are slower but often more interesting, winding through the hills and along the river. The Four Rivers cycle path follows the Namhan, and the riverside roads are pleasant and quiet. Fuel and convenience stores are found in every town.