Ponte di Legno takes its name from the wooden bridge that once crossed the Oglio river here, and it is the last proper village before the road leaves the Val Camonica and heads up into the high mountains. It sits at about 1,260 metres, and it is surrounded by the peaks of the Adamello and Ortles-Cevedale groups, with the Tonale Pass just to the east and the Gavia pass to the north. The village is a ski and walking resort, and it keeps a handsome old centre of stone houses beside a modern strip of hotels and cafes. The nearby hamlets of Temù and Vezza d'Oglio are smaller still.
For a rider, this is where preparation counts. The Gavia Pass, at 2,621 metres, is one of the highest paved roads in Italy, and it has a reputation. The road from the Ponte di Legno side is narrow, with steep gradients, tight hairpins, little or no barrier in places and sections of rough surface. It is closed in winter, usually opening in late spring or early summer after snow clearing, and it can close again at the first autumn snowfall. Check conditions before you go. The Giro d'Italia has crossed it, famously in 1988 in a blizzard.
Ponte di Legno has fuel stations and shops, and since the pass has no supplies at the top, fill up and take some water. The village is also a convenient place for a hot lunch before or after the climb, and local cooking features polenta, cured meats, cheese and berries from the woods. The nearby Stelvio National Park, one of Italy's largest, protects chamois, ibex and golden eagles, and in the early morning you may see wildlife on the road verges.
Weather is the constant theme. Mornings tend to be clearest, and afternoon cloud and thunder build over the mountains in summer, so start early. Even in July, it can be near freezing at the top, so carry layers. The ride finishes here with the sort of tiredness that comes from concentration and altitude, and a quiet evening in the village feels earned.