Pokhara is the point where Nepal's mountain drama starts to feel close. The city lies at about eight hundred metres, beside the long blue Phewa Lake, and from the lakeside you can see the Annapurna range lined up along the northern horizon, including the sharp summit of Machapuchare, the Fishtail, which has never been climbed because it is held sacred. On a clear morning the effect is almost unfair; on a hazy afternoon the peaks vanish altogether.
Around two hundred thousand people live here, and the town has grown from a trading stop on the old route between India and Tibet into the country's trekking capital. Shops sell boots, down jackets and maps, cafes serve momos and strong coffee, and boats paddle out on the lake to the small island temple. The World Peace Pagoda stands on a ridge above the water, reached by a steep walk or a short drive, and the view of the lake and the mountains is among the best here. Many Gurkha soldiers come from the hill villages of this region.
For riders, Pokhara is a hub. The Prithvi Highway from Kathmandu, about two hundred kilometres, winds along river gorges and through hill villages, busy with trucks and buses, and the journey can take six to eight hours. From here a road runs north along the Kali Gandaki, the deepest valley in the world by some measures, towards Jomsom and Upper Mustang, though the surface deteriorates quickly and the route demands care and experience. The monsoon, from about June to September, brings landslides and slick roads, so the best seasons are autumn and spring.
There is no shortage of fuel in Pokhara, with stations all around the city, and it is the place to fill up and check the bike before heading north. Spare parts and mechanics can be found, though not always for modern machines, so bring what you need. Water should be treated or bought sealed.
Aim to be on the lake for sunrise, when the mist lifts and the mountains turn pink. Then breakfast, a long ride, and as little rush as possible.