The Katsura river runs below, cutting a gorge near Ōtsuki that is crossed by Saruhashi, the Monkey Bridge, one of Japan's three great strange bridges, a wooden cantilever construction that has been rebuilt many times since the Middle Ages. Enzan, to the north-west, is the gateway to the Daibosatsu mountains and the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park.
This is a landscape of terraced orchards, with grapes, peaches and persimmons ripening along the slopes. The Kōshū grape, grown here for over a thousand years, makes the white wine of Katsunuma, and the vineyards have given the area a growing reputation among wine lovers, with tasting rooms open to visitors. The old Kōshū Kaidō, the road from Edo to Kōfu, ran through here, and Sasago Pass, a long climb to the east, was one of its steepest sections, with checkpoints and inns that have mostly vanished. Mount Fuji appears on the southern horizon from many viewpoints, a huge white shape above the lower hills.
The roads are a pleasure. From Ōtsuki, routes climb the valleys toward Kosuge and Lake Okutama, with sharp bends, narrow sections and a thick cover of forest, and the Matsuhime road in particular has a fine reputation among riders. The surface is mostly good, but narrow in places, and rockfalls, wet leaves and fallen branches are common. In winter, ice persists in the shade, and snow can close the higher roads. Autumn is the best time, with the orchards and forests in colour, and spring brings blossom in the valleys.
Fuel and food are easy in Ōtsuki, Enzan and the Kōfu basin, with convenience stores and restaurants along the main roads. The local dish is hōtō, a thick noodle soup of flat wheat noodles, pumpkin and vegetables, served in an iron pot and perfect for a cold day. Fresh fruit is for sale at roadside stands in season.
The label mentions Bandai Azuma and Shōsenkyō, but the mountains here have their own appeal, quieter and little known to visitors.