South of Odda, in the narrow valley that leads toward Røldal, the road runs right past one of the most photographed waterfalls in Norway. Låtefossen falls in two great white streams that meet at the bottom and pass under an old stone bridge, so close to the road that spray can soak you as you stand at the railing. It is about 165 metres high, and in early summer, when the snow is melting, it thunders.
The valley here is steep and wooded, with the Hardanger mountains rising on both sides and waterfalls coming off the slopes in several places. The old road through the valley, with its stone bridge, dates from the nineteenth century, when the route from Odda to Haukeli and eastern Norway was improved, and Låtefossen has been an attraction for travellers ever since. There is a small kiosk and parking area beside the falls in summer.
Odda, a few kilometres north at the head of the Sørfjord, is an industrial town with an interesting story: it grew around smelting works in the early twentieth century, powered by hydroelectricity, and the old zinc and carbide plants were once among the biggest in Europe. Today the town is better known as the base for the hike to Trolltunga, the rock ledge that sticks out over the Ringedalsvatnet, which draws crowds from around the world. The old industrial buildings, now partly protected, give the town an atmosphere unlike the tidier villages of the fjord.
The riding on this stretch is a mix of valley road, tunnels and a few tight bends near the falls. Traffic can be heavy in summer, especially around Låtefossen, where cars stop and people wander onto the road. Ride carefully. The road south climbs to Røldal and over the Haukeli mountains, and north it follows the Sørfjord past orchards, which flower in May and give the Hardanger region its fame for apples and cider.
Odda has fuel, shops, cafes and accommodation, and it is the place to stock up before the climb south. The Sørfjord is a lovely ride north toward Kinsarvik and Utne, with fruit stands selling cherries in summer.