Nicolosi is the town where Etna starts to feel real. It sits on the southern slope of the volcano at around seven hundred metres, a place of low houses built from black lava stone, steep streets and a surprising number of cafes, and it is the usual gateway for anyone heading up the mountain. Above it, the dark cones of Monti Rossi, formed in the eruption of 1669, look like two big red-brown humps against the sky. That eruption was one of the most destructive in the volcano's history, and its lava flowed down the slopes and reached the walls of Catania, leaving a landscape that still looks raw.
Etna is the tallest active volcano in Europe, at a little over three thousand three hundred metres, though the exact height changes with each eruption, and the whole mountain is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The soil from its ash is fertile, and on the lower slopes you find vineyards, pistachio and citrus orchards, and fields of prickly pear. The wine made here is highly regarded, and a glass of local red with a plate of pasta is a good reward after a day on the bike.
For riders, Nicolosi is the base and the starting line. The road from here to Rifugio Sapienza, the provincial road that climbs the south flank, is wide and well surfaced, with a series of bends through lava fields and pine woods. The gradient is steady, and the views of the sea and Catania open behind you as you climb. Be careful of ash and grit on the surface after eruptions, and of cold, fast-changing weather higher up. Traffic can be heavy at weekends and in summer, when buses and tour groups go up and down.
The town has everything you might need, from fuel to supermarkets, pharmacies and restaurants. Fill the tank here before the climb, as there is nothing above except the souvenir shops and cafes around the refuge. There are good bakeries too, and the Sicilian morning ritual of a brioche stuffed with granita is worth trying. Catania, about twenty kilometres south, is the nearest large city with an airport and plenty of services.
Nicolosi also has the Etna park office, where you can find maps and information on the trails, the cable car and local guides. Check conditions before going up, because the authorities close access to the upper slopes when the volcano is active, and it is worth listening to what they say.