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CURVESCOUT / PLACE TO SEE

Near Neuville-sur-Saône (area 45.9,4.8)

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On the west bank of the Saône, opposite Neuville, the land rises quickly from the river into the Monts d'Or. This stop sits on that slope between Chasselay and Albigny-sur-Saône, where the last suburbs of Lyon fade into orchards, stone walls and small vineyards, and the hills begin to glow golden in the evening light.

That colour is the clue to the country just north of here. The Pierres Dorées area, the southern tip of the Beaujolais, takes its name from a local limestone rich in iron oxide that turns honey-gold in the sun. Villages like Chessy, Oingt and Theizé are built entirely of it, with castles, churches and houses that look warm even on cloudy days. It is one of the most beautiful parts of the Lyon region, and it begins only a few kilometres from here.

The Monts d'Or themselves are a small but steep massif, topped by Mont Verdun, whose summit is occupied by a military air base and an old fort. Mont Thou and Mont Cindre, nearby, offer views over Lyon and the Saône valley. The slopes are covered with woods, meadows and old stone quarries, and the area is popular with walkers and cyclists.

The riding here is pleasant and varied. Small roads climb into the hills with tight bends and steep gradients, while the riverside road is flat and fast. Traffic can be heavy near Lyon, especially at rush hour, and the narrow village roads require attention.

Neuville over the bridge covers fuel and groceries. But if the light is still good, point the bike north for twenty minutes instead: a glass of Beaujolais in a square of golden stone beats any petrol-station coffee.

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