Out on the Oslofjord, between the Nesodden peninsula and the western shore near Slemmestad, the water is wide, island-studded and busy with sails on summer weekends. This point sits in that stretch of fjord country, a few kilometres from Nesoddtangen, where wooded shores, smooth granite skerries and summer cabins line the water, and the towers of Oslo are visible to the north. The ferries that cross the fjord, and the many small boats, give the area a maritime feel.
The shores on both sides tell different stories. Nesodden has long been a refuge for artists and writers seeking quiet and nature close to the city, and its wooded hills and small coves are popular for walks and swimming. Slemmestad, on the western side, grew around a large cement factory that operated for most of the twentieth century, using the limestone of the area, and its industrial buildings now house a museum. The islands of the fjord, many now protected, are popular for swimming, picnics and camping in the long summer evenings.
The Sognefjellet ride is one of Norway's great mountain roads, but it starts a long way from here. The road heads north through the valleys of Valdres or Gudbrandsdalen to Lom, with its wooden stave church, and then climbs over the Sognefjell between the peaks of Jotunheimen, reaching around 1,400 metres, the highest mountain pass road in northern Europe. In early summer, the road runs between walls of snow, and the views of glaciers and peaks are extraordinary. It then descends in a series of tight hairpins to Skjolden at the end of the Sognefjord. The pass is closed in winter, usually from autumn until late spring, so check the dates before you plan.
Riding in Norway requires patience. Speed limits are low and fines are heavy, tunnels are long and cold, and the roads are often narrow and winding. Tolls are collected automatically, and ferries are part of many routes. Weather can change quickly in the mountains, with rain, fog and even snow possible in summer.
Fuel, food and supplies are easy to find around Oslo and its suburbs, but stations become sparse in the mountains, so fill up whenever you can. Pack warm, waterproof clothes, even in July. Before leaving, take a moment by the fjord to watch the light on the water, especially in the long, golden evenings of midsummer.