Oslo's suburbs fade quickly here into forest, lakes and fjord. The point lies on the eastern side of the Bunnefjord, the inner arm of the Oslofjord, between Kolbotn and the Nesodden peninsula, an area of wooded hills, granite outcrops, small farms and houses painted in red, white and yellow. Nesoddtangen at the tip of the peninsula is linked to central Oslo by a ferry that crosses the fjord to Aker Brygge, and many locals commute by boat.
The landscape was shaped by ice. Glaciers scraped the bedrock smooth during the last ice age and left behind lakes, rounded hills and the long, narrow fjord. In summer the light lasts almost all night, the water is warm enough for a swim from the rocks, and the forests are full of blueberries and the smell of pine. In winter the days are short, the roads can be icy and the lakes freeze.
The Atlantic Road ride is a long journey from here, heading north and west through the valleys and over the mountains to the coast near Molde and Kristiansund, where the road hops between small islands on a series of bridges, the most famous of which curves high above the sea. It is a serious undertaking, with long stretches of road, ferries, tunnels and mountain passes, and it rewards careful planning, especially for fuel and accommodation.
Riding in Norway has its own rhythm. Speed limits are low, often 80 km/h on main roads, and fines for speeding are among the highest in Europe. Roads are generally well surfaced but narrow, with tunnels, roadworks and frost heave in places. Tolls are collected automatically, so registering your plate with the AutoPASS system can make things easier. Moose and deer are a real danger at dawn and dusk, especially in the forests. The legal alcohol limit for drivers is very low, and enforcement is strict.
Fuel, food and supplies are easy to find in the suburbs around Kolbotn and Nesodden, and the ferry at Nesoddtangen offers a lovely way to see the fjord and the city from the water. Before setting out, check the weather and road conditions, especially for mountain passes, which may be closed in winter. A coffee and a cinnamon bun at a local bakery is the Norwegian way to begin a long day.