Here the islands of Lofoten and Vesterålen almost touch. The narrow strait of Raftsundet separates Austvågøya, the big eastern island of Lofoten, from Hinnøya, and the water between them runs between steep mountains that rise straight from the sea, some of them over a thousand metres. It is a wild, dramatic landscape, with fewer people than the famous western islands and plenty of space to ride and look.
The Trollfjord, a narrow side branch off Raftsundet, is one of the famous sights of the region: only about a hundred metres wide at its mouth, with sheer walls on both sides, it is visited by boats from Svolvær and by the Hurtigruten coastal ships, which turn around inside it. In 1890 the fjord gave its name to a battle, when fishermen in small open boats fought with the crews of steamships that had blocked the entrance to keep the fish for themselves. The fishermen won, and the event became a symbol of the struggle between traditional fishing and big capital.
Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany visited this area on his summer cruises in the late nineteenth century and climbed a hill above Digermulen, at the southern end of Raftsundet, that still bears his name. The view from the top over the islands is among the finest in Lofoten. The E10, which links Lofoten to the mainland via tunnels and bridges, passes nearby, and the Raftsund bridge carries a side road across the strait.
The riding here is a mix of main road and narrow side roads, with tunnels, bridges, tight bends along the shore and some spectacular views. Traffic on the E10 can be heavy in summer, with camper vans and tour buses, but the side roads are quieter. The weather can change fast, and the wind can funnel strongly through the straits. The light in the midnight sun is extraordinary, especially when the mountains catch the low sun.
Melbu and Stokmarknes, on Hadseløya to the north, are small towns with fuel and services, and Svolvær, the main town of Lofoten, is about twenty-five kilometres southwest. Between them the settlements are small, so plan your stops.