The badlands of western North Dakota are where a young Theodore Roosevelt came to recover from grief, and where, he later said, he became the man who could be president. In 1884, after his wife and mother died on the same day, he retreated to his ranches in these rugged hills along the Little Missouri River and spent several years living the life of a cattle rancher.
Roosevelt's Maltese Cross Cabin, which he lived in during his first years in the badlands, has been moved to the visitor centre in Medora, and you can walk through its small rooms. The site of his second home, the Elkhorn Ranch, is further north and much harder to reach. Medora itself is a tiny town of old wooden buildings, revived as a tourist destination, with a summer musical show in an outdoor amphitheatre.
The South Unit scenic loop is one of the best wildlife rides in the West. Bison wander across the road, wild horses graze on the plateaus, and prairie dog towns spread across the flats, with their residents barking at passing traffic. Elk, pronghorn and mule deer are also common. The bison are huge and unpredictable, and you should keep a respectful distance and never approach them, especially on a motorcycle.
The road itself is narrow and winding, with steep gradients and sharp curves, and it climbs to several viewpoints with sweeping views over the badlands. Parts of the loop have been closed in recent years because of landslides and road damage, so check the current situation before you set out. The Painted Canyon Overlook, just off Interstate 94 to the east, offers a stunning view over the colourful badlands.
Medora has fuel, food and lodging in summer, but services are limited in winter. Belfield, about twenty-five kilometres to the east, and Beach, about forty kilometres to the west, have basic services. The nearest larger town is Dickinson, about sixty kilometres east. Early morning and late evening are the hours to be here, when the wildlife is most active and the light is warm.