The southern road back from Mèo Vạc is the half of the loop that many people skip, and they miss out. Around Lũng Hồ and the village of Du Già, a few kilometres west, the country is greener and more enclosed than on the high karst plateau: deep valleys with rice terraces, forested slopes, streams and waterfalls, and scattered villages of Tày and H'Mông houses. It feels more remote, and it is. Fewer tourists come this way, and the homestays are simple and welcoming.
Du Già is known for its waterfall, a short walk from the village, where locals and travellers swim in a cold pool in summer, and for the scenery along the road, which follows a river through a valley of rice fields and limestone hills. In the harvest season, around September and October, the terraces turn gold, and in spring they are flooded and mirror the sky. Life here is quieter than on the plateau, with farming, weaving and raising buffalo, and the people are curious and friendly.
The riding is more challenging than on the main loop. The roads around here are narrow and often rough, with sections of broken tarmac, gravel, mud and river crossings, especially in the rainy season, from May to September. Road works have improved some stretches in recent years, but conditions change quickly after storms. The hairpins are steep and tight, and there are long stretches with no villages at all. This is not a road to ride fast or tired, and an off-road bike or a light scooter is better than a heavy touring machine.
Fuel is the big consideration here. The villages have small shops that sell petrol in bottles, but there are few proper stations between Mèo Vạc, Yên Minh and Hà Giang, so fill up before you set off and carry a spare litre or two if you can. Food is simple: rice, vegetables, pork and eggs, and plenty of local rice wine. The homestays in Du Già offer a bed, a hot meal and often a warm welcome around the fire. The nearest large town with all services is Hà Giang, about twenty-seven kilometres away as the crow flies, but much further by road. The best time to ride is from October to April, when the weather is drier and cooler.