The Spree river does something strange in the Spreewald: instead of running in one channel, it splits into hundreds of small streams and canals that thread through a low, forested wetland southeast of Berlin. This spot lies near Lübbenau, the main town on the edge of this watery labyrinth, which has been a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1991. For centuries, people here lived on small islands of dry land, travelling by flat-bottomed punts, and some farms are still reached only by water.
The Spreewald is also home to the Sorbs, a Slavic minority who have lived in Lusatia for over a thousand years, with their own language, traditions and colourful costumes. Signs in the area are bilingual, in German and Lower Sorbian. And it is famous for gherkins: Spreewald pickles, marinated in vinegar, dill and spices, are sold everywhere, and they were one of the few East German products that survived reunification as a favourite brand.
For the swim, the canals of the Spreewald are not really for swimming; they are shallow, slow and busy with boats. But to the south lies the Lusatian Lake District, a chain of lakes created by flooding old open-cast lignite mines, and many of them now have sandy beaches and clear water. Lakes near Lübbenau and toward Senftenberg are popular on hot days, with bathing areas and cafes. The water is clean, though some lakes still have restrictions while the banks settle.
Riding here is flat, gentle and green. The roads cross fields, forests and small villages, with long, straight stretches and occasional cobbled sections in the villages. Traffic is light except on summer weekends, when tourists flock to the Spreewald. Watch for cyclists, as the area has excellent cycle paths, and for tractors and deer. The A13 motorway runs close by toward Berlin, but the smaller roads are more pleasant.
Lübbenau has fuel, cafes, restaurants and boat trips through the canals. A punt ride, with a picnic of pickles and local beer, is a classic Spreewald experience. Lübben, Luckau and Cottbus, all nearby, have more services. Then follow the quiet roads north toward Berlin, past the Scharmützelsee and the lakes of the Dahme valley.