Rice fields stretch flat to the horizon here, in the Central Plain of Thailand northwest of Bangkok, broken only by canals, villages on stilts, temples with glittering roofs and lines of palms. This point lies near Lat Bua Luang, a district in Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya province, in the fertile, low-lying country between the Chao Phraya and Tha Chin rivers, where water shapes almost everything about daily life.
This is the heartland of old Siam. Ayutthaya, the capital of the kingdom for four centuries until it was sacked by the Burmese in 1767, lies a short ride to the northeast, and its ruined temples and brick stupas, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are among the most impressive sights in Thailand. The canals around here were dug for irrigation and transport, and many villages still have houses facing the water, with boats tied to the steps.
As for the swim, honesty first: the canals and rivers here are working waterways, muddy and full of boat traffic, and they are not a good idea for swimming. Some resorts and hotels have pools, and local water parks exist on the outskirts of Bangkok, but in the middle of the rice country, a cooling stop is more likely to mean a cold drink and some shade at a roadside stall than a plunge.
The roads in this area are flat and mostly straight, crossing the plain between towns and villages, with occasional bridges over canals. Traffic varies from quiet country lanes to busy highways full of trucks and buses. Watch for dogs, scooters coming the wrong way, and sudden potholes. Thailand drives on the left. In the hot season, from March to May, temperatures can exceed thirty-five degrees Celsius, and in the rainy season, from roughly June to October, heavy afternoon storms flood roads quickly.
Fuel stations are common along the main roads, often with small shops and coffee stalls, and the nearest larger town is Bang Len, about twenty kilometres away. Food is everywhere: noodle soups, grilled pork and sticky rice, fresh fruit and iced drinks from roadside stalls. Drink plenty of water and take breaks in the shade on the long, hot ride back toward Bangkok.