La Paz fills a deep canyon carved into the edge of the Bolivian Altiplano, its houses climbing the steep walls in a jumble of red brick, and above it all, the snow-covered peak of Illimani, at 6,438 metres, stands guard to the south-east. The city centre lies at about 3,600 metres, making it the highest seat of government in the world, and the sprawling city of El Alto spreads across the plateau on the rim above, at around four thousand metres.
Arriving on a motorcycle is an experience. The roads from the Altiplano drop over the rim into the canyon in a series of steep, congested highways and switchbacks, with chaotic traffic, minibuses stopping anywhere, and potholes. Above the traffic, the city's cable car network, Mi Teleférico, glides across the sky in coloured gondolas, and it is one of the best ways to see the city. In the old town, the Witches' Market sells herbs, potions and dried llama foetuses, used as offerings to Pachamama, the earth mother, in the foundations of new buildings.
From here, the North Yungas Road drops from La Cumbre, a pass at over 4,600 metres, to the subtropical town of Coroico, at around 1,200 metres, in one of the most dramatic descents in the world. The old road, once known as the most dangerous road in the world, is a narrow dirt track cut into cliffs, with drops of hundreds of metres and no guardrails; a newer, paved road now carries most of the traffic, and the old one is used mainly by mountain bikers and adventurous riders. On the old road, the unusual rule is that descending vehicles keep to the outside edge, so they can see the drop.
The Sajama Route heads in the other direction, west across the Altiplano towards the Chilean border, to the Sajama National Park, where the volcano Sajama, at 6,542 metres the highest mountain in Bolivia, rises above a plain of grass and lakes, with herds of llamas and vicuñas and hot springs.
Fuel can be tricky in Bolivia: foreign vehicles are often charged a much higher price than locals, and some stations may refuse to sell to foreigners or ask for paperwork. Fill up whenever you can, and carry cash. Take time to acclimatise before you ride, as altitude sickness is common, and drink coca tea.