US 50 runs along the Nevada shore above coves of white granite boulders and water so clear and blue it looks unreal, with the snow-capped peaks of the Desolation Wilderness rising across the lake to the west. Just south is Kingsbury, a residential community on the slopes above Stateline, and the casinos of the state line strip are only a few minutes away.
Cave Rock is the landmark here, a volcanic plug rising straight out of the lake, and the highway passes through it in two short tunnels. The rock is sacred to the Washoe people, who have lived around Tahoe for thousands of years, and climbing on it has been banned. The tunnels themselves are a bit of a thrill, with a sudden dark rumble followed by a burst of light and blue water.
Kingsbury Grade, Nevada State Route 207, climbs from Stateline up over the Carson Range and drops steeply down to the Carson Valley near Genoa, the oldest settlement in Nevada. It is a favourite ride for locals, with tight switchbacks, steep gradients and spectacular views over the valley on the eastern side. The surface is generally good, but the descent requires care, especially in wet weather.
The lake itself is a marvel. Lake Tahoe is one of the deepest lakes in North America, over 500 metres at its deepest, and its clarity comes from the granite basin and the low levels of nutrients. In summer the beaches are crowded, especially Zephyr Cove with its paddle-wheel boats, but in spring and autumn the lake is quieter and the light is lovely. Winter brings snow and ski traffic to the region.
US 50 along this stretch can be busy, particularly on summer weekends and holiday periods, with heavy traffic heading to and from South Lake Tahoe. The curves are gentle and the speeds are moderate. Fuel, food and lodging are plentiful in Stateline and South Lake Tahoe, about thirteen kilometres south, and there are smaller services at Zephyr Cove. Note that Nevada and California have different fuel prices and taxes, so you may want to fill up on the Nevada side.