Birkat al Mawz sits at the foot of the Jebel Akhdar, where the mountains of the Hajar range rise abruptly from the gravel plains of interior Oman, and it is a classic Omani oasis: date palm groves watered by a falaj, an ancient irrigation channel, mud-brick houses, a fort, and the bare, folded mountains rising behind. The name means pool of bananas, and bananas do grow in the gardens, along with dates, limes and mangoes, all watered by the channel that brings water from the mountains.
The falaj system is one of Oman's great achievements. These channels, some of them more than a thousand years old, carry water from springs or underground sources, sometimes for many kilometres, to the villages and fields, and the water is shared among farmers according to ancient rules, measured in time shares. Five of Oman's aflaj are UNESCO World Heritage sites, including one nearby, and walking along the channels through the palm groves is a cool, peaceful experience. The fort at Birkat al Mawz, Bait al Rudaydah, has been restored and stands at the edge of the oasis.
Izki, about ten kilometres away, is one of the oldest towns in Oman, with a history going back to pre-Islamic times, and Nizwa, a little further, was the capital of Oman for centuries. Nizwa's great round fort, built in the seventeenth century, dominates the town, and the souq beside it is famous for its silver, pottery and the Friday morning livestock market, where goats and cattle are paraded and sold amid a lot of shouting and haggling.
From Birkat al Mawz, the road to Jebel Akhdar begins its climb, and there is a police checkpoint at the foot of the mountain where vehicles are checked. For years, only four-wheel-drive vehicles have been allowed to continue, because of the steep gradients, so if you are planning to ride up, ask about the rules for motorcycles before you set off. Fuel, food and supplies are available in Birkat al Mawz and Izki, and Nizwa has everything. The heat in summer is intense, with temperatures well above forty degrees, so the cooler months, from October to April, are when you want to be here.