The outer coast of Gildeskål, north of the village of Inndyr, is one of those quiet stretches of northern Norway where the Coastal Route stops showing off and simply follows the shore. Sandhornøya, the island just north, is dominated by the steep peak of Sandhornet, and the road skirts the water between fjords, small farms and islands, with Bodø about twenty kilometres further on. The landscape is a mix of white beaches, green fields, rocky headlands and mountains rising directly from the sea.
Gildeskål has a long history. Its old church, a medieval stone building from the twelfth century, is one of the oldest in northern Norway, and it sits close to the newer church near Inndyr, together a reminder that this coast was settled, wealthy and connected to the rest of Norway long before the roads came. Fishing and farming have supported people here for centuries, and today salmon farming is an important industry, with farms in many of the fjords.
The riding is easy and pleasant. The road follows the shore with gentle curves and short climbs, and the surface is generally good. Traffic is light, apart from the stretches close to Bodø. In summer the midnight sun hangs over the sea to the north, and the light on the beaches and islands at night is soft and golden. The weather can change quickly, with fog rolling in from the sea or wind picking up on exposed parts, and the temperature rarely gets very warm even in July.
A short ride north brings you to Saltstraumen, near Bodø, the strongest tidal current in the world, where huge volumes of water squeeze through a narrow strait between the fjords every six hours, forming whirlpools that can be several metres across. Time your visit to coincide with the peak flow, and watch from the bridge or the rocks below. It is an extraordinary sight, and the fishing is famous.
Inndyr has a small shop and some services, but fuel and the full range of shops, cafes and hotels are in Bodø, the largest town in Nordland, about twenty kilometres away. Bodø is also the port for the ferries to Lofoten, which makes it a natural base for the next stage of the journey.