By the time you reach the Hana end of the Hana Highway, you have earned it. The road from Kahului winds along the north-east coast of Maui for about eighty kilometres, with hundreds of bends and dozens of narrow bridges, most of them only one lane wide, through rainforest, past waterfalls and above black lava cliffs. Hana itself is a small, quiet town of about twelve hundred people, set around a bay with a red cinder hill, Ka'uiki, guarding its southern end.
The country beyond Hana is some of the loveliest in Hawaii. Hamoa Beach, a crescent of grey sand under palms, was singled out by the writer James Michener as one of the most beautiful beaches in the Pacific. North of town, Wai'anapanapa State Park has a black sand beach, sea caves and lava arches, and it now requires advance reservations. South, the road continues to Kipahulu, part of Haleakala National Park, where the Pools of 'Ohe'o tumble down to the sea, and a little further on, in the churchyard of a small stone church, the aviator Charles Lindbergh is buried. He spent his last years in the area and chose to be buried looking out to sea.
The riding is slow and beautiful. The road is narrow, with tight bends and blind corners, and it is busy with tourists in rental cars who stop suddenly to look at waterfalls. At the one-lane bridges, the custom is to let groups of cars cross in turn, and patience is essential. Rain is frequent, especially in the morning, and the road can be slippery with mud, leaves and water. Beyond Kipahulu, the road becomes rougher, and many rental agreements do not allow you to continue around the back of Haleakala.
Hana has a small fuel station, a few shops, food trucks and a hotel, but services are limited, and fuel is expensive. Kula, about thirty-three kilometres away as the crow flies but much further by road, is the nearest larger community. Fill up in Paia or Kahului before you set out, and bring water and snacks.
Remember that people live here, and the road is their only link to the rest of the island. Drive with courtesy, park only in designated areas and respect private land.