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Near Grabouw, on the way back

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Grabouw is the heart of the Elgin valley, the apple-growing capital of South Africa, a high, cool basin surrounded by mountains about an hour east of Cape Town. Orchards of apples and pears cover the valley floor, and in recent decades vineyards have been planted too, producing crisp cool-climate wines. This stop is a few kilometres from the town, in the hills and forests on the western side of the valley, near the Palmiet River.

On the way back to Cape Town, the N2 climbs out of the valley and crosses Sir Lowry's Pass, with one of the great views in the Western Cape: the whole sweep of False Bay, from the Hottentots Holland mountains to Cape Point, spread out below. There is a viewpoint at the top where most people stop. Be aware that the pass is steep and busy, with heavy trucks, and the wind can be ferocious, especially when the south-easter is blowing in summer.

For a swim, the area has rivers and dams. The Palmiet River runs through the Kogelberg, a nature reserve of fynbos and mountains, with clear, tea-coloured pools, though access is controlled and you may need a permit. Many people prefer to head to the coast, where the lagoon at Kleinmond and the beaches along the coast offer safer swimming. The Atlantic and False Bay can be cold, and the surf can be dangerous, so swim only where it is safe.

An alternative route back to Cape Town follows the R44, Clarence Drive, along the coast from Kleinmond to Gordon's Bay, one of the most beautiful coastal roads in the country, with cliffs plunging into the sea and the mountains rising above. Watch out for baboons, which are common here, and for rockfalls. Grabouw has fuel, supermarkets and farm stalls selling apples, juice and pies. The weather can change quickly, with mist and rain in the mountains.

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