The north-west coast of Jeju around Hallim faces the open sea and the prevailing wind, and it feels different from the sheltered south. The water off the beaches at Hyeopjae and Geumneung is turquoise over white sand, an unexpected colour against the black lava rocks, and the small island of Biyangdo sits just offshore, a low cone that looks like a hat dropped in the sea. Hallim itself is a working harbour town with fish markets, boats and a scattering of cafes, a little rough around the edges and all the better for it.
Jeju has an old saying that the island has three things in abundance: wind, stones and women. The wind you will feel; the stones are everywhere, in the low walls of black basalt that divide the fields, built with gaps so that the wind can pass through without knocking them down; the women refers to the haenyeo divers and to a history in which men were often lost at sea. The stone grandfather statues called dol hareubang, carved from the same porous rock, stand at village entrances and outside public buildings, and their round eyes and mushroom hats appear on every souvenir.
The coastal road north-east from here towards Aewol is one of the most enjoyable stretches on the island for a relaxed ride. It hugs the shoreline, rising and falling over low headlands, with the sea on one side and fields of cabbage, garlic and onions on the other. The road has become famous for its cafes with big windows over the sea, so expect parked cars on the verges and people crossing to take photographs. In winter the wind is fierce and cold; in spring and autumn it is pleasant; summer brings crowds on the beaches.
Inland are lava tubes and botanical parks, including a garden near Hallim with caves and palms, and further up, the gentle volcanic cones called oreum dot the landscape, many with short paths to their rims. Hallim has fuel, convenience stores and restaurants, and Jeju City, about thirty kilometres away, has everything. Try the local seafood, especially grilled mackerel or a bowl of seafood noodle soup, and keep an eye on the sky, because squalls come in from the sea fast.