Moskog is not much more than a junction in the woods south of Førde, but it marks the western end of the Gaularfjellet route, where the E39 meets the road that climbs east over the mountains to Balestrand on the Sognefjord. Around it the country is green and rolling, with forests of pine and birch, lakes, small farms on cleared ground and steep hills rising behind. The river Gaula runs through the area and gives the route its name.
The interesting part of the ride lies to the east. Gaularfjellet takes you up from the valleys onto a high plateau and then down the far side in an extraordinary series of hairpins toward Balestrand, with views over the Vetlefjord and a viewing platform called Utsikten, a dramatic piece of architecture with a balcony hanging over the valley. On the way, waterfalls tumble beside the road, among them Likholefossen, where a footbridge and platform let you stand right next to the white water. The route is a summer road at its highest parts and can close in winter, so check conditions before planning a crossing in spring or autumn.
From Moskog the road east is calmer, following lakes and the Gaula valley through farmland and woods, with mostly flowing bends and a good surface. Traffic is modest, mostly local cars and a few tourists, and the scenery builds gradually. In the evening, when the light is low and the lakes are still, the valley is very lovely. In summer the meadows are full of flowers, and in autumn the birch turns gold.
Førde, about seven kilometres north, is the largest town in the area and the commercial centre of Sunnfjord, with a hospital, shopping centres, hotels, restaurants and plenty of fuel. It is a practical town rather than a charming one, but it has everything you might need. The Jølstra river runs through it on its way to the sea, and there is a traditional folk music festival in summer. Use Førde for supplies, then turn east at Moskog and enjoy the climb into the hills. Bring rain gear, because this is western Norway, where showers come and go all day.