The Sidemen valley is what many people imagine Bali was like before Ubud filled up. A river runs through a deep valley in the east of the island, and on either side rice terraces climb the slopes in neat steps, with coconut palms and banana trees between them and Mount Agung looming above at the head of the valley. Villages such as Duda, Selat and Sidemen sit along the road, small and quiet, with family compounds, temples and warungs serving simple meals. It is a peaceful, green place, where the sound of water in the irrigation channels is constant.
The valley is known for weaving. Women in the villages around Sidemen weave songket, a cloth with gold or silver threads, and endek, a type of ikat in which the threads are tie-dyed before weaving, and you can see looms in many houses and visit workshops where the cloth is made. The textiles are used for ceremonial clothing and are an important part of Balinese culture. The area also has a strong tradition of painting and music, and the German painter Walter Spies lived here for a time in the 1930s, drawn by the beauty and culture of the valley.
The landscape here was shaped by Agung, and the 1963 eruption devastated many villages in the area, with lava flows and ash destroying crops and homes. The valley recovered, and today the volcanic soil is fertile and productive, growing rice, vegetables and fruit. Walking trails lead through the terraces, and local guides offer tours of the fields and villages, explaining the subak irrigation system and the rhythm of the farming year.
The road through the valley is narrow and winding, with a decent surface in most places, but there are steep sections and potholes. You will meet the odd tour group and little else, and the morning views of Agung up the valley are superb. Fuel is available in the larger villages, but the nearest towns with full services are Semarapura, known as Klungkung, in the south, and Amlapura in the east. Accommodation in the valley ranges from simple guesthouses to boutique hotels, and two nights here is time well spent.