Urquhart Castle stands on a rocky point on the northern shore of Loch Ness, a ruin of grey stone walls and a tall tower house looking out over the dark water. It is one of the largest castles in Scotland, and its history is long and violent: it was fought over by the Scots and the English in the Wars of Independence, held and lost by various clans, and finally blown up in 1692 by government troops to stop it being used by the Jacobites. What remains is a romantic shell, with the tower still standing and the views from the top stretching up and down the loch.
Loch Ness itself is one of the largest and deepest lakes in Britain, about thirty-seven kilometres long and in places more than 220 metres deep, holding more fresh water than all the lakes of England and Wales combined. It lies in the Great Glen, a geological fault that cuts Scotland in two from Fort William to Inverness, and its water is dark with peat. And then there is Nessie, the monster said to live in the loch, first reported in modern times in the 1930s and the subject of countless sightings, photographs and hoaxes ever since. The village of Drumnadrochit, a few kilometres away, is the centre of the Nessie industry, with exhibitions and shops.
The A82 runs along the northern shore of the loch, between Fort William and Inverness, and it is a scenic but often busy road. It follows the water closely, with views across the loch, gentle curves and occasional narrow sections, and it is popular with tourists, buses and lorries. In summer the castle car park can be full, and the road can be slow. The best time to visit is early in the morning or in the evening, when the light on the loch is beautiful and the crowds have gone.
The castle has a visitor centre and cafe, and there is an admission charge. Drumnadrochit has shops, cafes, accommodation and fuel, and Inverness, about twenty kilometres northeast, is the capital of the Highlands, with all services. The road along the southern shore of the loch, the B852 and B862, is quieter and more twisting, and it is a fine alternative for riders.