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Near Darrington, on the way back

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

Darrington is a logging town in the north Cascades foothills, about ten kilometres from this stop, and it sits at the confluence of the Sauk and Suiattle rivers, in a valley overshadowed by the cone of Whitehorse Mountain. To the east, the snowy volcano Glacier Peak rises to 3,213 metres, the most remote of the five Washington volcanoes, and on a clear day it can be seen from the roads around town. The country is wild, wet and steep, covered in dense forest, and the rivers run milky green with glacial silt.

The town has a quiet, independent character, shaped by timber, bluegrass music and a history of Southern settlers who came to work the woods. Every July it hosts a bluegrass festival that has run for decades, drawing musicians and fans from across the country, and the sound of banjos and fiddles drifts across the valley. Darrington is small, with a fuel station, a store and a few cafes, but it welcomes visitors.

The Mountain Loop Highway runs through the area, connecting Darrington to Granite Falls and the Cascade foothills, and it is one of the great rides in the state, with rivers, old-growth trees and views of the peaks. Parts of the road are unpaved or rough, and some sections close in winter due to snow or washouts, so check conditions before you go. The ghost town of Monte Cristo, a former gold and silver mining camp, lies at the end of a rough track, and its story of boom and bust is evocative.

For swimming, the rivers are cold and fast, and deep pools are best approached with care, but on a hot day a dip can be refreshing. Rain is common, and mist hangs in the trees, giving the landscape a mysterious look. Wildlife includes elk, black bears and eagles, and in autumn salmon run in the river. Fill the tank in Arlington before heading up the valley, and carry spare layers.

Read it in a ride

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