Hout Bay sits in a deep green bowl on the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsula, a short hop over the mountains from Constantia, and this point lies in that valley or on the slopes above it. Steep peaks surround it on three sides: the Sentinel guarding the harbour mouth, the Karbonkelberg to the west and the long ridge of Table Mountain's back table to the east. The fishing harbour, the beach and the village spread out along the valley floor.
The harbour is still a working one, with fishing boats, a fish market and stalls selling snoek, the local fish, as well as boats taking visitors to see the Cape fur seals on Duiker Island, just off the coast. The beach is broad and pretty, but the water is cold, fed by the Benguela Current, and swimming here is bracing even in summer. In the forests and on the slopes above the village, tracks lead up toward the peaks, with views out over the ocean.
The famous road here is Chapman's Peak Drive, a toll road cut into the cliffs between Hout Bay and Noordhoek, with tight bends, rock overhangs and sheer drops to the sea. It is one of the most spectacular coast roads in the world, and is sometimes closed because of rockfall or bad weather, so check before you go. The road over Constantia Nek, the saddle between Hout Bay and Constantia, climbs through forest on a series of curves, offering an alternative route into the city's southern suburbs.
The rides from here head north and east to some of South Africa's most famous roads. The Cederberg ride goes north up the N7 to a wilderness of red sandstone, rock art and rooibos tea farms around Clanwilliam. The Route 62 and Swartberg Pass ride heads east through the Little Karoo, the semi-desert of ostrich farms and wine towns, to the Swartberg Pass, a gravel road built in the late nineteenth century by the road engineer Thomas Bain, with dramatic views over the mountains. Both are long journeys, demanding preparation and plenty of time.
Hout Bay has fuel, shops, cafés and restaurants, and the harbour has fish and chips with a view. The weather is changeable: the southeaster can blow ferociously in summer, and winter brings rain. Start early, check the forecast and enjoy the view of the bay from the road as you leave.