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Near Chaponost

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The Romans brought water to Lyon from the Pilat massif, some eighty kilometres away, and the most impressive surviving section of their work stands at Chaponost, a few kilometres from the point. The Gier aqueduct, as it is called, crossed the valleys on arches of stone and brick, and at Chaponost a long line of them still marches across a field, some still carrying their channels. It is a remarkable sight, all the more so for being in an ordinary suburban setting, and it is easily reached by a short detour.

The point itself lies near Brindas and Messimy, on the western edge of the Lyon agglomeration, where the city meets the first hills of the Monts du Lyonnais. These hills are a patchwork of orchards, meadows, woods and small villages, with views back over the city and, on clear days, the Alps on the eastern horizon. Mont Blanc can sometimes be seen from here, a white shape floating above the haze.

The rides that finish here come back from the east, from the Bugey, the Chartreuse and the Vercors, often after a long day of mountain roads. The final stretch involves crossing or skirting Lyon, which can be slow and frustrating at rush hour, so try to time your return for the evening, after the peak. Once you are on the west side of the city, the roads become quieter and more pleasant, winding up into the hills.

The local villages have bakeries, cafés and small restaurants, and there are fuel stations and supermarkets in the larger towns nearby. For a proper dinner, Lyon is close enough to make an evening trip worthwhile. The Monts du Lyonnais themselves are worth exploring on another day, with a dense network of small roads, tight bends and gentle climbs, and very little traffic. Spring, when the fruit trees are in flower, is particularly beautiful, but autumn, with the leaves turning and the air crisp, is lovely too.

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