West of Castellane, the Verdon river disappears into the earth. Or that is how it looks from the road: the D952 climbs away from the town along the river, through a valley of pale limestone, and then the river plunges into the Grand Canyon du Verdon, a gorge up to seven hundred metres deep, while the road clings to the northern rim above. This spot lies on that rim, near Point Sublime and the village of Rougon, where the view down into the gorge is one of the most famous in France.
Point Sublime is a short walk from a car park beside the road, and from the edge you look straight down into the mouth of the gorge, where the river runs green and cold between cliffs of white and grey limestone. Vultures, reintroduced into the area in the late twentieth century, often circle above the cliffs, and climbers dangle from ropes on the walls. Nearby, the Couloir Samson, a narrow slot where the river enters the gorge, can be explored on foot, and the classic hiking trail through the bottom of the canyon starts not far away.
The riding is extraordinary. The D952 is narrow, winding and exposed, with tight bends, low walls and sheer drops, and in summer it is crowded with camper vans, cars and coaches, so expect to slow down often. To the south, the Route des Crêtes, the D23, makes a loop out of La Palud-sur-Verdon along the very edge of the cliffs, with overlooks one after another; parts of it are one-way and it is closed in winter. On the south rim, the Corniche Sublime is equally spectacular. Early morning in June or September is the best time.
Castellane, about eleven kilometres east, is a lively little town at the foot of a huge rock with a chapel on top, and it has fuel, cafes, restaurants and shops. There is no reliable service on the rim roads themselves except in the small villages, so fill up in Castellane before heading out.
The Verdon country is dry, hot and fragrant in summer, smelling of thyme, lavender and pine, and the cicadas buzz relentlessly in the heat. Bring water, take your time, and stop often: every bend seems to reveal a better view than the last.