The Haut Beaujolais is not the Beaujolais most people imagine. North-west of Beaujeu the vineyards run out and the hills rise into forest, dark Douglas fir plantations, beech woods, steep pastures with Charolais cattle grazing on them. This stop sits in that upland country between Beaujeu and Matour, where the roads loop over ridges and down into narrow valleys with small farming villages.
Beaujeu gave the whole region its name. The lords of Beaujeu controlled this country in the Middle Ages, and Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI, effectively ruled France as regent during her brother's minority. The town is still the wine capital of the area and celebrates the release of Beaujolais nouveau every November with bonfires and plenty of wine. Higher up, Mont Saint-Rigaud is the highest point in the Rhône department, a forested summit with views over the hills towards the Saône.
For a swim the best option is a ride away. The Lac des Sapins at Cublize, south-west of here, is a large lake with a natural-filter bathing area, which makes it one of the more unusual and reliable swimming spots in the region in summer. Closer to this stop you mostly find streams and ponds, pleasant for a rest in the shade but not for diving in.
The riding is what you came for. The roads are narrow and twisty, with sudden blind corners, gravel at junctions and occasional sheep or cattle crossing between fields. Expect cool, fresh air under the firs even on hot days, and fog in the valleys on autumn mornings. Traffic is light except for timber trucks during the week.
Matour and Beaujeu have cafés, bakeries and basic shops. For fuel, plan ahead: Belleville, down on the Saône plain, is the safest bet, and smaller villages may have nothing or only an automatic pump.