Mae Sariang is where the Mae Hong Son Loop takes a breath. Coming from Chiang Mai on Route 108, you have spent the morning winding up through Hot and over a long, forested ridge, and then the road drops into the valley of the Yuam River and this small, unhurried market town appears, the first proper town in a long while.
It has a different feel from the Thai lowlands. This is close to the Myanmar border, and the population is a mix of Thai, Shan, Karen and other hill peoples, with a strong Burmese influence visible in the temples: tiered roofs of wood and corrugated metal, white chedis and Shan-style decoration. The river runs past the edge of town, and in the evening people walk along it and eat at the small restaurants on the bank. West of town, a road runs to Mae Sam Laep on the Salween River, which forms the border, and the Salween National Park protects the forested hills on the Thai side.
For riders, the road south and north of Mae Sariang is what the loop is all about. Route 108 is mostly smooth asphalt with endless curves as it climbs over the hills, with long stretches through teak forest and bamboo, steep gradients and tight corners. North of Mae Sariang the road becomes even more twisting as it heads toward Khun Yuam and Mae Hong Son, with fewer villages and more empty forest. In the rainy season, from roughly June to October, landslides and potholes are common, and the surface can be slippery. In the cool season, from November to February, the riding is at its best, with clear skies and cool mornings, though the hills can be shrouded in mist until mid-morning.
Mae Sariang has everything you need: fuel stations, small hotels and guesthouses, markets, restaurants and cafes. It is a good place to spend a night, especially if you want to break the loop into shorter stages. The local food is worth trying: khao soi, the northern curry noodle soup, is everywhere, and Shan dishes such as tua nao, fermented soybean, are a speciality of the region. Fill up here before heading north, since the gaps between towns with proper fuel stations get longer.