The western massif of the Picos de Europa, the Cornión, rises in a wall of grey limestone above the green valleys of eastern Asturias, and the country around Amieva, Cangas de Onís and Covadonga is where the mountains first take hold. It is a land of deep gorges, steep meadows, stone villages and fast rivers, with cows and goats on the slopes and the peaks often lost in cloud.
Covadonga is the heart of Asturian and Spanish identity. In a cave in the cliffs here, according to tradition, the nobleman Pelayo and his followers took refuge after the Muslim conquest of Spain, and around the year 722 they defeated a Moorish army in the valley below, the first Christian victory of what later became known as the Reconquista. The cave holds a small chapel with Pelayo's tomb, and a pink stone basilica stands above it. Higher up, a narrow road climbs steeply to the Lakes of Covadonga, Enol and Ercina, two glacial lakes in a high basin surrounded by peaks; in peak season the road is closed to private vehicles during the day, and visitors must take a bus.
The riding here is wonderful. The road south from Cangas de Onís through the Desfiladero de los Beyos follows the Sella river through a narrow gorge, with towering cliffs, tunnels and tight bends, and it continues over the mountains into León. Other roads climb to high passes and remote villages, with steep gradients, hairpins and narrow lanes. The surface varies, and livestock on the road is common. The weather is changeable, with rain, fog and sudden storms, even in summer, so bring waterproofs.
Cangas de Onís, about sixteen kilometres away, is the main town of the area, with a famous medieval bridge over the Sella, hung with a large cross, and plenty of restaurants, bars and shops. Asturian food is hearty: fabada, a rich stew of white beans and pork, and Cabrales, a strong blue cheese matured in caves in the mountains. Cider is poured from a height to aerate it, and it is fun to watch.
Fuel is available in Cangas de Onís and the larger villages, but it is scarce in the mountains, so fill up before you head into the high country. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, when the meadows are green and the crowds are thinner.