In winter, Nazaré produces some of the biggest surfable waves on earth. Off Praia do Norte, the beach north of town, a deep underwater canyon funnels Atlantic swells towards the shore, and on the right days they rise into moving mountains of water. Surfers towed by jet skis ride them, and crowds gather on the headland by the old fort with its red lighthouse to watch. If you are here between October and March and a big swell is forecast, it is worth going to look.
The town itself is divided into two parts. Down below, the main town stretches along a long sandy bay, with fishermen's houses, cafés and restaurants facing the sea. Up above, on top of a sheer cliff, sits the Sítio, reached by a funicular or a winding road. According to legend, in the twelfth century a nobleman named Dom Fuas Roupinho was chasing a deer in the fog when his horse reached the edge of the cliff; he prayed to the Virgin and the horse stopped just in time. A small chapel marks the spot, and the view from the edge over the town and the bay is spectacular.
Nazaré has kept some of its fishing traditions. You may still see older women wearing traditional costumes with several layers of skirts, and fish drying on racks on the beach. The food is excellent: grilled sardines in summer, rich fish stews known as caldeirada, and plenty of fresh seafood. Not far inland lie the great monasteries of Alcobaça and Batalha, both World Heritage Sites and both worth a visit.
The ride into Nazaré, whether along the coast from the south or through the pine forests from the north, is pleasant. The coastal roads have good views and a few nice bends, while the inland roads cross rolling farmland and eucalyptus woods. In summer, the town gets very busy, and parking can be difficult. Out of season, it is calmer, but the Atlantic weather can bring wind and rain. There is fuel and everything else you need in and around town.