The village of Navacerrada sits at the foot of the Sierra de Guadarrama, about fifty kilometres north-west of Madrid, and it takes its name from the pass that looms above it. The Puerto de Navacerrada, at 1,858 metres, is one of the classic mountain passes of central Spain, and on any sunny weekend it draws riders from Madrid in large numbers. The village is where many of them stop for breakfast or lunch before or after the climb.
The village itself is pleasant, with a square, granite houses and a slightly alpine feel, surrounded by pine forests and meadows. Below it, the Navacerrada reservoir reflects the mountains, and in the evenings the light on the granite peaks turns gold and pink. The bars and restaurants serve hearty mountain food, roast meats, stews and plenty of coffee, and on weekends the terraces are full of leather jackets and helmets.
The road from Navacerrada to the pass climbs through pine forests in a series of bends, with views back over the plains towards Madrid. At the top, there is a small ski resort, and in winter the pass can be closed by snow, or chains can be required. From the top, the road descends north towards Segovia and La Granja, with more bends and fine views over the plains of Castile. Another road leads from the pass to the Puerto de Cotos and the Lozoya valley, a beautiful high valley with forests and rivers.
Be aware that these roads are very popular, and on weekends they are full of motorcyclists, cyclists and day-trippers, and there are frequent police controls. The surface is generally good, but there can be gravel, especially after winter. The village has limited fuel options; Cercedilla and Collado Villalba nearby have more. April, May, September and October are kindest, mild and usually clear. In summer, the mountains offer a cool escape from the heat of Madrid, but the roads are at their busiest.