In the steppe of northern Kazakhstan, the Naurzum reserve covers a patch of country that, from a distance, looks like nothing and, from close up, turns out to be a world of its own. It lies in the Kostanay region, in the dry heart of the Turgay plains, and is made of grassland, salt lakes, birch groves and, remarkably, a strip of old pine forest called Naurzum Karagai that survives here, far south of the main taiga. Tersek is one of the separate sectors of the reserve. Together with Korgalzhyn it forms a UNESCO site, the steppe and lakes of northern Kazakhstan, inscribed in 2008.
The importance of the place lies in its birds. The lakes and wetlands of the Kazakh steppe stand on a major migratory route between Africa, South Asia and Siberia, and in spring and autumn they fill with ducks, geese, swans and waders. Rare species such as the Dalmatian pelican, the steppe eagle and the demoiselle crane have been recorded in the region, and the grasslands support the saiga antelope, a strange-nosed animal that once roamed in millions and has made a cautious comeback. In spring the steppe is covered in tulips and feather grass, and the whole landscape ripples in the wind.
This is a remote area, and a ride here has more in common with an expedition than a casual tour. The main roads across the steppe are long and straight, with surfaces that vary widely, and the distances between settlements are great. Tracks into the reserve are sandy or muddy, and the reserve itself requires permission to enter, so it is wise to arrange it in advance with the administration. Summer brings extreme heat and swarms of mosquitoes near the lakes, and winters are bitterly cold, with blizzards and temperatures far below freezing. May and early June, when the steppe is green and the birds are nesting, are the best time.
There are no towns on the map near this point, so plan carefully. Fill the tank at the regional centres, carry extra fuel, water, food and a way to repair a puncture, and let someone know your route. Village shops sell basic supplies, and hospitality in the steppe is a matter of pride, with tea, bread and sour milk offered to travellers.