In the steppes of northern Kazakhstan, in the Kostanay region, islands of pine forest rise out of the open grassland like a mirage, and between them lie shallow lakes full of birds. The Naurzum State Nature Reserve is one of the two parts of Saryarka – Steppe and Lakes of Northern Kazakhstan, listed by UNESCO in 2008 together with the Korgalzhyn reserve far to the east.
The lakes are vital stopover points for birds migrating between Africa, Europe and Asia and the breeding grounds of the Siberian tundra. In spring and autumn, huge flocks of geese, ducks and waders gather here, including rare species such as the white-tailed eagle, the imperial eagle and the Siberian white crane. The steppes are also home to marmots, wolves, foxes and saiga antelope, whose populations have been recovering after dramatic declines.
Visiting the reserve usually requires permission and a guide from the reserve administration, as access to the core areas is strictly controlled. The reserve has a visitor centre and organises tours to observation points and trails. The surrounding area is sparsely populated, with small villages, farms and enormous fields of wheat.
The riding here is about space and distance. The roads across the steppe are long and straight, often in poor condition, with potholes, gravel sections and dust, and tracks across the grassland can become impassable after rain. Wind is constant and can be strong. Distances between settlements are great, and services are limited, so plan carefully. Summers are hot and dry, winters bitterly cold with snowstorms; late spring, when the steppe is green and flowering, and early autumn, during the bird migration, are the best times to visit.
There are no large towns nearby. Karamendy, the village near the reserve headquarters, has basic shops, and Kostanay, the regional capital, has full services but is a long way off. Fuel stations are few, so fill up whenever you can and carry extra fuel, water and food. In the villages, Kazakh hospitality means you may be offered tea, bread and perhaps kumys, fermented mare's milk, or beshbarmak, the national dish of boiled meat and noodles. Watching the sun set over the steppe, with flocks of birds flying over the lakes, is an experience of great peace.