At low tide, the sea simply leaves. Twice a day the North Sea withdraws from the Wadden Sea, exposing vast flats of mud and sand, channels and banks, where birds feed by the hundreds of thousands and seals haul out to rest. The Lower Saxony Wadden Sea National Park protects this coast, and together with the Dutch and Danish parts it forms the Wadden Sea World Heritage Site, inscribed in 2009.
The Wadden Sea is one of the most important areas in the world for migratory birds, a refuelling stop for millions on their journeys between the Arctic and Africa. Spring and autumn bring huge flocks of waders, geese and ducks, a spectacle of sound and movement. The mudflats are full of life: worms, shellfish and crabs feed the birds, and the channels are nurseries for fish.
Walking on the mudflats, Wattwandern, is a unique experience, but it should only be done with a guide, as the tides come in quickly and the channels can be dangerous. Fedderwardersiel, on the Butjadingen coast, is a small harbour where shrimp boats unload their catch, and you can buy fresh North Sea shrimps on the quay.
The riding is flat and windy. The roads run along the dykes and through the marshland, with sheep grazing on the dykes and wide views over the sea and land. The wind can be very strong, especially in autumn and winter, and rain is common. Cattle grids and gates on dyke roads are common, so take care. The landscape is open, with farms, villages and church towers on the horizon.
Wilhelmshaven, across the Jade Bay, is a naval port with museums and a deep-water container terminal, and Nordenham on the Weser has more services. Butjadingen's villages have fuel and shops. Order a shrimp roll on the quay, then tea the Frisian way: rock sugar in the cup, strong tea poured over it so it crackles, and a spoon of cream laid on top and never stirred.