Narvik exists because of iron. In the late nineteenth century the huge ore deposits at Kiruna in Swedish Lapland needed an ice-free port, and the Norwegian coast, warmed by the Gulf Stream, offered one. The railway, the Ofotbanen, opened in 1902 and still carries ore trains down the mountains to the quay, where it is loaded onto ships, and the great ore jetty, lit at night, is the most characteristic sight in town.
That industrial importance made it a prize in the Second World War. In April 1940 German forces seized the town, and a series of naval and land battles followed in the fjords and mountains, ending in the first Allied victory on land against Germany. The Allies then withdrew, as the war in France demanded, and the town was left badly damaged. The War Museum tells the story clearly, and the war cemetery, where soldiers of several nations lie side by side, is a quiet place.
Narvik has around fourteen thousand people and sits on the Ofotfjord, with steep mountains rising almost from the shore. A gondola takes you high up the slopes for a view of the fjord and the peaks, and in early summer the midnight sun shines on the water. Ski enthusiasts come in winter, and the aurora sometimes appears over the town.
From here the E10 climbs east through the Rombak valley and up to the Swedish border, passing Riksgränsen and the high lakes and bare mountains of Abisko, which is where this ride goes. The road is well surfaced, with long, easy bends, tunnels and a few tight sections, and it follows the railway for much of the way. Weather can turn quickly, with snow possible in any month at the pass, and strong winds on the exposed stretches. West, the same road leads out to Lofoten. Watch for reindeer on the road in the Swedish part, where they wander freely.
Fuel is plentiful in Narvik, with several stations and supermarkets, and it is wise to fill up here since services thin out quickly towards the border. Sweden, just beyond, has its own prices and rules, but the currency is the krona and cards are accepted almost everywhere.
Leave in the morning, ride into the light, and pause by a lake when the wind drops.