Naran is a mountain town in the Kaghan valley of northern Pakistan, at about 2,400 metres, and it is the last substantial settlement before the road climbs to the Babusar Pass. The valley is long, green and steep, with the Kunhar river rushing through it and pine forest on the slopes, and snow peaks closing the horizon. The town itself is a long strip of hotels, bazaars and restaurants along the river, busy in summer with Pakistani families escaping the heat of the plains. Lake Saif ul Malook, a turquoise lake beneath Malika Parbat, the Queen of the Mountains, lies about ten kilometres away and can be reached by a rough jeep track.
Legend says that a prince, Saif ul Malook, fell in love with a fairy, and the lake is the place where they met, a story told in many versions across the Kaghan valley. The mountains above Naran are part of the western Himalaya, and Malika Parbat, at about 5,290 metres, is the highest in the area. The people of the valley are Gujjars and Kohistanis, who keep cattle and goats, and in summer, they move to high pastures.
The Babusar Pass road, which leaves Naran, climbs to about 4,170 metres, then descends to Chilas in the Indus valley. It is a spectacular, high-altitude road, with steep hairpins, rough surface, and sections of gravel and washout, and it is open only in summer, from about June to October, depending on snow. Landslides are common, and the road can be closed for days. Weather changes fast, with cold wind, rain or snow, even in July. Altitude can be a problem, so ride slowly.
Naran has fuel stations and workshops, but supplies can run short in the busy season, so top up when you can. Food is simple and hearty: trout from the river, dal, rice and naan, with sweet tea. Hotels range from basic to comfortable, and in July and August, they fill up. Check the road conditions with local police before the pass, and set off early to avoid afternoon storms. The air in the morning is cold and clear, and the mountains glow in the sunrise.