Nanxun is one of the water towns of the Yangtze delta, south of Lake Tai, where life has revolved around canals for more than a thousand years. In the nineteenth century, it became immensely rich through the silk trade, and its merchant families, known by nicknames like the four elephants and the eight bulls, built mansions that mixed Chinese courtyards with European columns, stained glass and Western-style furniture, an unusual blend you will not find in many other water towns. The canal running through the town is part of the Grand Canal, the immense waterway linking Beijing with Hangzhou, which UNESCO listed in 2014.
Walking along the canals, under arched stone bridges, past whitewashed houses with black-tiled roofs reflected in the water, is the essence of a visit. The Little Lotus Villa, a garden estate with a lotus pond, and the Jiaye Hall library, a private book collection housed in a beautiful building, are highlights, as is the Zhang Shiming residence, with its Western-influenced interiors. Nanxun is less crowded than better-known towns like Wuzhen or Zhouzhuang, especially early in the morning, when locals do tai chi by the water and the mist hangs over the canals.
Now the practical side for riders. Foreigners in China generally need a Chinese driving licence to ride, motorcycles are banned from expressways, and many cities restrict or prohibit them entirely, so independent motorcycle travel requires serious planning, often through a specialised tour operator. The roads in the delta are flat, straight and busy, crossing an endless network of canals, fish ponds and mulberry fields, with heavy traffic of trucks, cars and electric scooters. The old town of Nanxun itself is pedestrianised, so you will explore on foot or by boat.
Huzhou, about thirty kilometres away, and Wuzhen, about sixteen, have full services, and Nanxun has plenty of restaurants and guesthouses in and around the old town. Local specialities include freshwater fish and shrimp, braised pork and sweet rice cakes. The climate is humid, with hot summers, a rainy season in June and July, and cool winters. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant times to visit, with mild temperatures and clear skies.