Nanfang'ao is a fishing harbour tucked into a bay on the north-east coast of Taiwan, and it is still more working port than tourist attraction. Boats of all sizes crowd the quay, nets and floats are heaped on the dock, and the air smells of salt, diesel and frying. Behind it the coast mountains rise steeply, and the town climbs the hillside in a jumble of narrow lanes and concrete houses with tiled roofs, while the harbour wall protects the bay from the Pacific swell.
The port is one of the island's main fishing harbours, and fresh seafood is the draw. In the morning, boats unload their catch and the quay is busy with buyers, and restaurants and stalls along the front serve fish, crab, squid and shellfish in many forms, usually very fresh and simply cooked. A bowl of fish soup or a plate of fried squid at an open-fronted restaurant, eaten with a cold drink while looking at the boats, is exactly the right thing to do. The tide, the sea breeze and the sound of engines are all part of the experience.
The Suhua Highway, which connects this coast with Hualien to the south, passes along some of the most dramatic cliffs in Taiwan. The route was first carved out during the Japanese period, and later improved, and it clings to a coastline where mountains drop almost straight into the sea. Riding it is spectacular, with tunnels, bends and blue water below, but trucks and tour buses share the road, and rockfall and typhoons can bring closures, so check conditions. The north end near Nanfang'ao is gentler, with small bays and fishing villages, and it is a good place to start. Cloud and drizzle are common here, especially in winter, when the north-east monsoon brings damp, grey weather; the best months for clear weather are spring and autumn.
Facilities in the village are simple, with small shops, convenience stores and restaurants. Fuel is best taken in Su'ao or Yilan before you arrive, as the nearest city, Yilan, is about twenty-three kilometres away and petrol stations are scarcer along the cliff sections. Parking at the harbour is limited and can be chaotic at weekends.
Walk along the quay, watch the boats come and go, and let the fishermen get on with their day.