The crossing from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay is one of the classic openings of a Vancouver Island trip. The big BC Ferries ships leave from the little cove at the start of the Sea-to-Sky Highway and steam across the Strait of Georgia for about an hour and a half, past the islands of Howe Sound and out into open water, with the snowy Coast Mountains behind you and the long blue shape of the island ahead. On a clear day, it is a cruise in itself; in a winter gale, it is an adventure.
Motorcycles usually load first and are lashed down near the bow, so arrive early and follow the crew's instructions. Reservations are wise on summer weekends and holidays, when queues can mean missed sailings. Once aboard, head up to the deck to watch for seals, porpoises and, occasionally, orcas.
Nanaimo, where you land, is the island's second city. It began as a Hudson's Bay Company coal-mining post in the 1850s, and the wooden Bastion, a small fort built to protect the settlement, still stands by the harbour. The town is also the namesake of the Nanaimo bar, a rich no-bake dessert of chocolate, custard and coconut that you will find in every café and bakery.
From Departure Bay, the route heads north on Highway 19 before turning west on Highway 4 towards Port Alberni and the Pacific Rim. Nanaimo is well supplied with pumps, supermarkets and restaurants, so fill up before heading across the island. The harbour front is pleasant for a short walk and a coffee, a gentle way to shake off the crossing before the forests and mountains of the interior.