Namur sits at the meeting of two rivers, the Sambre and the Meuse, and a great fortress stands on the rock above them. The Citadel, one of the largest in Europe, has been rebuilt many times, by Spanish, Dutch, French and Belgian hands, and it still dominates the city's skyline. From its terraces, you look down on the red roofs, the river bends and the forested hills beyond. The city is the capital of Wallonia, the French-speaking half of Belgium, and has a university, a market, and a lively riverside.
There is plenty to eat. Namur has a good reputation for food, with restaurants ranging from traditional Walloon places to modern bistros. A local speciality is the tarte al djote, a cheese and chard tart, and the region is known for its beer, its jambon d'Ardenne and its chocolate. The old town, with its narrow streets and squares, is full of cafes and bakeries, and a stroll along the quay with a waffle in your hand is a fine way to spend an hour. The cathedral of Saint-Aubain, with its domed top, is an unusual, Baroque landmark.
For a rider, Namur is the sensible place to eat and refuel before heading into the Ardennes. It is large enough to have fuel stations on all the approaches, and there are plenty of parking spots by the river. The roads along the Meuse, south toward Dinant and Givet, are among the prettiest in Belgium, following the river between limestone cliffs, with castles, rock climbers and little villages along the way. The surface is good, and the corners are flowing, but the traffic can be heavy at weekends. To the east, the Condroz plateau offers quiet farm roads, and to the south, the Ardennes proper begins.
Namur sits on the border between the plains and the hills, and the change in landscape is clear within a few kilometres. The Meuse valley is dotted with rock formations and ruined castles, and the cliffs at Freyr are a favourite with climbers.
Weather is mild, but the Ardennes can be cold and wet, so pack a waterproof. Summer weekends are the busiest time, with riders from all over the Benelux region, so go early if you want the roads to yourself. Namur is a good city to wander, and a coffee on the Place d'Armes or by the river is a pleasure.