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Namtib Reserve

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

The Namtib Biosphere Reserve lies in the southern Tiras Mountains of Namibia, on private farmland that has been set aside as a reserve for wildlife and desert landscape. There is no town nearby and no population to list, only red sand, rocky slopes and wide grass plains that run up against the mountains, with the Namib Desert lying to the west. The nearest place with real supplies is a long way off, which gives you an idea of the scale.

The road here is the D707, a gravel route that winds between hills and across dry riverbeds. The surface is graded, so most bikes manage it with care, but corrugations shake everything loose, so check your luggage straps at every stop. In the wet season short storms can leave water across the road, and sand gathers in the lowest points. Between those obstacles you get the best of the ride, with mountain walls on one side, plains on the other and views that stretch to the horizon. Speed is the enemy, because animals and sudden bends appear without warning.

The landscape is the real subject. The Tiras Mountains are ancient, made of folded rock that has weathered into jagged ridges and boulder slopes, and the plains below hold quiver trees in places and low scrub that turns green with rain. Look for oryx, springbok and the occasional mountain zebra, and birds of prey riding thermals. At night the sky is among the darkest on the continent, and the stars are astonishing, so if you can sleep in a lodge or camp nearby, you will remember it for years.

Fuel is not available here, so carry what you need, and bring water, since none is guaranteed. Tell your hosts when you expect to arrive, because a breakdown out here can take hours to solve. The cool season from May to September is the most comfortable, with warm days and clear nights. In summer the heat is fierce, so ride in the early morning and rest in the afternoon.

Read it in a ride

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