Nalchik is the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, a republic where the northern Caucasus rises abruptly from a rolling plain, and its setting is one of its main pleasures. The city sits at the foot of the mountains with the long white wall of the Caucasus range on the southern horizon, and on a clear day the twin summits of Elbrus appear far above everything else. About two hundred seventy thousand people live here, a mix of Kabardians, Balkars and Russians, and the city has a lively, outgoing character with wide leafy avenues.
The name is from the local word for horseshoe, nal, and the town began in 1818 as a Russian fortress on the frontier. Kabardians, a Circassian people, had long been known for horsemanship, and the horse culture remains central in the region. Balkars, a Turkic mountain people, live in the high valleys, with their own language and traditions. The two communities share the republic, and their cooking, music and festivals add depth to the region.
The city's heart is a large park, which was laid out in the early nineteenth century and has a pleasant mix of old trees, fountains and a small lake. People walk there in the evening, and it is a good place to sit for an hour. The town also has springs and spa facilities, and a long reputation as a health resort.
The roads south of Nalchik are the lure. The Baksan valley road runs up toward Elbrus, climbing through forested gorges to the high villages at the foot of the mountain, with the final stretch ending at Azau, where cable cars rise onto the slopes of the highest peak in Europe. To the west, the Chegem gorge is a deep, narrow canyon with a series of waterfalls that drop in high white ribbons from the cliffs, and the road beyond leads up to Eltyubyu and the high meadows. Surfaces are generally good on the main roads and rougher on the side routes, and rockfalls and washouts can occur after heavy rain.
Everything a rider needs is in Nalchik, including fuel, mechanics and hotels. Local food includes khychiny, pastries filled with cheese, and a hearty dish of boiled meat with a sauce of garlic and sour cream. The best seasons are late spring and early autumn, and summer afternoons can bring sudden storms in the mountains.