On a hill on the Motobu peninsula in northern Okinawa, the long, curving walls of Nakijin castle follow the contours of the limestone like a stone dragon. In the fourteenth century, Okinawa was divided into three kingdoms, and Nakijin was the seat of the northern kingdom, Hokuzan, until it was conquered by the Chuzan kingdom in the early fifteenth century. The site is part of the UNESCO-listed Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu, which celebrates the unique culture of the Ryukyu islands, shaped by trade with China, Japan and Southeast Asia.
The walls are made of irregular limestone blocks, without mortar, and they wind for about 1.5 kilometres around the site. From the top, the views over the East China Sea and the islands are spectacular. In January and February, Nakijin is one of the first places in Japan where the cherry trees bloom, with deep pink flowers lining the paths, and the castle is lit up in the evening during the festival.
The Motobu peninsula is a beautiful place to ride. The roads wind along the coast, past beaches, coral reefs and small villages, and the bridges to the islands of Kouri and Sesoko offer spectacular views over turquoise water. Traffic can be heavy around the Churaumi Aquarium, one of the largest in the world, a short ride from Nakijin. Driving is on the left, speed limits are low, and summer brings heat, humidity and the occasional typhoon.
Nago, eleven kilometres away, is the main town in northern Okinawa, with fuel, shops and restaurants. Okinawan food is unique: try goya champuru, a stir-fry with bitter melon, soba with pork, and the local beer and awamori, a distilled spirit. The best times to visit are spring and autumn, when the weather is warm but not oppressive and the sea is perfect for swimming.