Nakai is a name that belongs to a plateau, a reservoir and a small town all at once. It lies in Khammouane province, in central Laos, where the Annamite mountains rise toward the Vietnamese border, and the high, forested country around it is among the wildest in Southeast Asia. In 2010, the Nam Theun 2 dam closed its gates, flooding part of the Nakai plateau and creating a large reservoir whose margin is still dotted with the stumps of drowned trees. The surrounding protected area shelters rare animals, including some, such as the saola, so elusive that it was only described by science in the 1990s.
The Thakhek Loop, the popular motorbike route that circles this province, passes through here, and for riders it is a change of pace. The tarmac is generally good, with smooth bends and long stretches of open road through rice paddies, teak and bamboo, with limestone karst rising in fantastic shapes. Heat and humidity are constants, with the dry season from November to February the most comfortable, and the wet season bringing sudden downpours and mud. Watch out for water buffalo, children, chickens, dogs and the occasional slow truck.
Villages are made of wooden houses on stilts, with big tin roofs, and many families are from ethnic minorities with their own languages and customs. Sticky rice, grilled meat and spicy dipping sauces are the staples of the roadside food stalls, and strong Lao coffee, often sweetened with condensed milk, is the best stimulant. In the evening, smoke from cooking fires drifts across the fields, and the sound of frogs and insects takes over from the engines.
Nakai is a town big enough to offer the basics: fuel stations, small shops, noodle stalls and a few simple guesthouses. Since the stretches between towns can be long, it is wise to fill up here, and to carry a small spare supply if your bike has a limited range. Cash in kip is more useful than cards. Rest in the shade in the afternoon heat, drink more than you think you need, and aim to finish the day's ride before dusk, since unlit roads and animals make night riding unwise.