Naha is the capital of Okinawa, a low, bright, warm city at the southern end of a long, thin island that for centuries was the Ryukyu Kingdom, independent and rich from trade between China, Japan and Southeast Asia. Its royal seat was Shuri Castle, on a hill above the city, with red lacquered halls in a style that mixes Chinese and Japanese ideas. A fire destroyed the main buildings in October 2019, and reconstruction is under way, though the walls and gates and the view over the city remain. The castle site belongs to the Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu, listed by UNESCO in 2000.
Riding out from Naha toward the northern part of the island is one of the more relaxed motorcycling days in Japan. Route 58 runs up the west coast, partly through busy built-up areas around US military bases, then opens into easier shoreline with sugar cane, small beaches and views across the East China Sea. Beyond Nago the hills grow greener and the road starts to twist, with the Yanbaru forest to the north holding the Okinawa rail, a flightless bird found nowhere else. Rain can come suddenly, and the road surface becomes slippery in moments. The typhoon season, from roughly August to October, can ground travellers entirely.
Okinawa has its own food culture, quite different from the main islands. Goya champuru, a stir-fry of bitter melon, tofu and egg, soki soba with its pork rib topping, and awamori, the local rice spirit, are all worth trying. The Makishi public market near Kokusai-dori Street has stalls selling fresh fish and pork, with upstairs restaurants that will cook what you buy. Kokusai-dori itself is a long, busy street of shops and souvenir stands, a bit tacky and a lot of fun.
For practicalities, you are in a city of three hundred thousand with fuel everywhere, and the same applies up Route 58. Driving is on the left. The island's bike scene is friendly, and you will see other riders on rentals and on their own machines. Heat and humidity in July and August are heavy. Spring is a good time, mild and bright, with the sea at its best.