Nagano is a city organised around a temple. Zenko-ji, which is over thirteen centuries old by tradition, has drawn pilgrims for so long that the city grew up on its approach, and the main avenue, lined with shops selling sweets, incense and crafts, leads gently uphill to the great wooden hall. The temple belongs to no single Buddhist sect, and its principal image, a hidden Buddha said to have come from Korea in the sixth or seventh century, is never shown to the public. A copy is displayed every few years.
In a dark corridor beneath the main altar, visitors can walk in total blackness and feel along the wall for a key to paradise, a small ritual that people enjoy. Nagano hosted the Winter Olympics in 1998, and the surrounding mountains hold ski resorts, hot springs and the famous Jigokudani snow monkeys, who bathe in a steaming pool in winter. The region is known as Shinshu, and its apples, soba noodles and pickled vegetables, oyaki dumplings and sake are well loved.
The riding around Nagano is superb. To the east, the road toward Utsukushigahara and the Venus Line climbs through highland meadows with wide views, and to the north, the roads toward Togakushi pass cedar forests and shrines. The mountain roads close for winter, typically from about December until April, and mornings in spring can be icy, so check the conditions before setting out. Autumn colours around late October are splendid.
Nagano city is large enough to offer fuel and food in plenty, and it makes a convenient base. Soba from Togakushi is a good lunch, served cold on bamboo trays. Parking for bikes is available near the temple, though weekends and festivals are crowded. Get up early to hear the monks chant at the morning service, a moving experience even for visitors who know little about Buddhism. The mountain air is cool and fresh.