Nador lies on the edge of a lagoon, and its fortunes have long been tied to the border. The city, with about a hundred and thirty thousand people, sits on the north-eastern coast of Morocco beside the Mar Chica, a large salt lagoon separated from the Mediterranean by a narrow sandbar, and only a short distance from the Spanish enclave of Melilla, whose land border at Beni Enzar is one of the busiest on the continent. The result is a lively, commercial place, with trade, remittances and a large diaspora in Europe visible in the new buildings and busy shops.
The surroundings carry their own interest. The Rif mountains rise to the west and the Gourougou massif to the south, covered in scrub and pine, while the lagoon attracts flamingos and other waterbirds, particularly in winter. The population is largely Amazigh, speaking Tarifit, and the region has its own cuisine of fish, olives, and sweet pastries. The sandbar and beaches along the coast fill with Moroccan families in summer.
For motorcyclists, Nador is the starting point of the Mediterranean coast road toward Al Hoceima, where the road winds along cliffs, past small coves and fishing villages, with views of blue water and the shapes of the Rif behind. Bends are frequent, surfaces vary, and traffic through the towns is slow, so allow more time than the distance suggests. Early morning is best, before the sun gets high and the beaches fill. Around the border, be ready for queues of cars and police checks, and keep your documents handy.
The city has all the services you need, including fuel stations, shops, banks and workshops, and Al Aaroui, about twenty kilometres away, is another large town. Fish grilled at simple restaurants near the lagoon and strong coffee in the cafés of the centre make a good break. Summer is hot and dry, with sea breezes on the coast, and winter brings rain, so pack appropriately. Treat the border zone sensibly, avoid photographing officials or installations, and carry enough fuel for the more remote coastal sections.