Myrtos is a small village on Crete's south coast, squeezed between the sea and the mountains, with a long pebble beach and a handful of whitewashed houses leaning toward the water. It is a quieter, more intimate place than Ierapetra, which lies roughly fourteen kilometres to the east, and it is the kind of village where people sit outside and watch the coast road with polite curiosity. The hills behind are steep and dry, and the sea in front is a deep, clear blue.
Its archaeology is far older than its tourism. On a hill near the village stands Fournou Korifi, an Early Minoan settlement dating to roughly the third millennium BC, one of the oldest known communities on the island. Excavation showed a tightly built complex of small rooms, and the finds, including storage jars and tools, say a great deal about daily life before the grand palaces. It is an undemonstrative site, but worth a look if you like to know what lies under the dry soil.
The road along this coast is a mixture of calm and drama. The stretch between Ierapetra and Myrtos runs beside the sea past greenhouses and farm plots, then turns to climb and twist along the cliffs, with views over the water and drop-offs that remind you to concentrate. The surface is generally good, but sand and grit blow onto the tarmac, and the wind can arrive suddenly. Coaches and hired cars use this route, so be ready for slow-moving vehicles on bends.
For practical stops, small tavernas on the front serve fresh fish, salad with local olive oil, and strong coffee, and the shops sell water and basics. Fuel is better arranged in Ierapetra, the nearest bigger town. Come in spring when wildflowers colour the hillsides, or in autumn when the sea is warm and the crowds have thinned. In midsummer it is hot enough that the best moment for the ride is early morning, followed by a long swim and a longer lunch.